shem banbury

This past weekend, Rachel and I tackled the Round the Mountain tramp, a multi-day adventure circling Mount Ruapehu. We decided to squeeze the usual 5-6 day tramp into just 4 days and 3 nights. It made for some long, tough days, but what an experience!

Day One: Whakapapa Village to Waihohonu Hut

• Distance: 16.08km
• Time: 3:15hrs walking time
• Total Ascent: 492m
• Total Descent: 486m
• Max Elevation: 1350m

We got underway at around 1 PM, making it to Waihohonu Hut just in time for dinner. The track—part of the Northern Circuit Great Walk—was well-maintained and easy to follow, allowing us to keep up a decent pace. It was a gentle introduction to the tramp, crossing open tussock lands and for the final 2km walking along side the Waihohonu River. Waihohonu Hut was like a tramping palace, with plenty of space, gas for cooking, and comfortable bunks. A perfect spot to kick off our adventure.

Day Two: Waihohonu Hut to Mangaehuehu Hut

• Distance: 24.79km
• Time: 7:09hrs walking time
• Total Ascent: 1308m
• Total Descent: 1087m
• Max Elevation: 1560m

Our first big day started early, and we made solid progress through the barren beauty of the Rangipo Desert. The vast, rocky terrain and the dramatic Waihianoa Gorge were highlights. What struck us most was the solitude—we only saw four other people the entire day. The later parts of the track were more challenging, with long, uneven rocky stretches that slowed our pass down. A brief spell of light drizzle didn’t help, but it didn’t last long. When we reached Mangaehuehu Hut, it was empty, though a Dutch couple arrived later. Despite the lack of firewood, I managed to coax the fire into life, and we had a cozy evening, even if the hut’s front door refused to close properly.

Day Three: Mangaehuehu Hut to Whakapapaiti Hut

• Distance: 25.63km
• Time: 8:52hrs walking time
• Total Ascent: 1526m
• Total Descent: 1463m
• Max Elevation: 1542m

This was the hardest day by far and nearly broke Rachel and me. It started well enough with a steady climb and long stretches of boardwalk, but things got tougher as we climbed Ohakune Road and dropped into rocky, uneven terrain.

The track then descended into the majestic Mangaturuturu Valley via the Cascades – where a mountain stream tumbles over a spectacular rockfall. The rocks are coated with a creamy-coloured silica deposit left behind by the fast-flowing stream. This was a highlight, but navigating it took time and effort.
After stopping at Mangaturuturu Hut for lunch, we made the ambitious decision to push on to Whakapapaiti Hut. The track was rough: muddy, washed out, and full of ruts that made every step a challenge. Rachel even took a tumble in one of our river crossings. By the time we reached the hut at 6:30 PM, we were utterly spent. The hut was busy. One lady kindly woman offered to move her sleeping bag and give us the bottom bunks. We couldn’t work out if she was being nice or reacting the the fact we could hardly move and getting to the top bunk might prove to much for us!

Day Four: Whakapapaiti Hut to Whakapapa Village

• Distance: 9.19km
• Time: 2:21hrs walking time
• Total Ascent: 234m
• Total Descent: 365m
• Max Elevation: 1258m

Thankfully, the final day was much easier. The track was well-maintained, and we started the day with a refreshing river crossing. The environment changed in this part of the track with the rocky terrain replaced with beautiful native forest. With no major challenges, we found a steady rhythm and enjoyed the scenery at a good clip. It was the perfect way to wind down after the rigours of the previous days.

The Round the Mountain tramp pushed us to our limits, but it was worth every moment. The variety of landscapes—from desert plains to alpine forests and cascading waterfalls—made it a journey to remember.