shem banbury

The Pouakai Circuit is a 2 or 3-day, 25km circular track that starts and finishes at the North Egmont Visitor Centre on Mount Taranaki. While this tramp may not take you to the summit of Mount Taranaki itself, it guides you along the awe-inspiring Pouakai Range, delivering unparalleled vistas of Mount Taranaki and a number of alpine and sub-alpine wonders.

The reason for our trip to Taranaki was that Rachel and I were celebrating our 20th Wedding Anniversary. We thought that there was no better way to celebrate our milestone than with 16 other people in a drafty Hut in the middle of nowhere. More on that later!

What sets this circuit apart is the ever-shifting landscapes that greet you along the way, with the scenery transforming dramatically almost every hour. Much of the trail takes you above the tree line, treating you to sweeping panoramas of the Pouakai Range and the majestic Mount Taranaki. Recent investments in the trail have led to substantial upgrades and improved facilities, and, in fact, the first day felt like we were walking on a freshly laid wooden deck.

One of the Pouakai Circuit Tramp’s standout features is the abundance of optional side trips. For those with ample time and energy, the allure of summiting Mount Taranaki or Pouakai Peak beckons or even a side trip to Bells Falls. We opted instead to soak in the mesmerizing beauty of the Pouakai Tarns, hoping to capture that elusive Instagram-worthy shot. It’s worth noting that this part of the tramp is busy. Many locals (and hip young Instagrammers) choose to access this part of the hike via the Mangorei Road entrance. So beware, Holly Hut and the short 10 minute walk to the Tarns is busy.

We chose to divide the hike into two equal days, commencing and concluding at the North Egmont Carpark. The circuit can be completed both ways, but we decided to complete the circuit clockwise. This turned out to be a wise decision, as it felt like we had the majority of the longer downhill sections.

Day 1: North Egmont Carpark to Pouakai Hut

• Distance: 13 km
• Duration: 3 hours
• Highlights: Moderate climb, tree-line vistas, rock formations, Pouakai Tarns.

Our tramp kicked off with a strenuous ascent up the side of Mount Taranaki. Although it was a challenging start, it allowed us to gain elevation while our energy was still high. After approximately 45 minutes, the trail leveled out and gradually descended to Holly Hut, which took us about 2 hours to get to.

Following a rest at Holly’s Hut, we crossed the Ahukawakawa Swamp. Recent improvements featuring wooden boardwalks made this part of the tramp genuinely enjoyable. However, a word of caution: after the swamp, the trail turned a bit treacherous, with a 45-minute uphill slog up 1000 or so steps to the Pouakai Range. This was undoubtedly the most demanding section of the tramp.

Pouakai Hut has room for around 16 trampers and was full for us. Due to the track’s popularity, reservations are necessary for this hut. Camping spots in front of the huts are available, but it’s crucial to tread lightly, as the ecosystems are delicate, and camping near the Pouakai Tarns is not allowed. But there was a minor hitch with our hut—the door handle was broken, leaving the front door open all night, and the window had to remain ajar in case someone closed it. This made for a rather chilly evening.

Day 2: Pouakai Hut to North Egmont Carpark

• Distance: 12 km
• Duration: 3 hours and 20 minutes
• Highlights: Smaller peaks, steep descent, Kaiauai Shelter, stunning native bush, and breathtaking views of Mount Taranaki.

The second day led us past the Pouakai Tarn and then onwards to Henry’s Peak (1224m). From here, a gradual descent brought us into the valley, where we encountered yet another set of stairs. Rumor has it that there are 2700 steps on this circuit, and I must concur; you’ll finish the hike with a pleasant burn in your quads. The final stretch home can be tackled via the Ram Track or the road. We opted for the road, as the track would have added an extra 50 minutes to our second day.
Trail conditions were generally well maintained over both days. However, for us, it felt like a “tramp of two halves.” The second-day section featured fewer wooden boardwalks and, in places, became slippery and muddy.

Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a novice adventurer, this trail will captivate you. Throughout most of the journey, I found myself wondering why this hidden gem isn’t one of New Zealand’s acclaimed Great Walks. It possesses all the essential ingredients—a wealth of breathtaking vistas, diverse terrain, and a lively birdlife. In my mind it is on equal with the Routeburn in terms of its diversity and views.
The only missing piece of the puzzle was a functional door handle on the hut! Perhaps that’s the reason why.